So19 Reviews: MARGARET WALLER'S Napoleon's Closet

Margaret Waller takes a deeply researched but unconventional look at fashion conventions in this engaging study of the way dress reflects and constructs identity, class and masculinity. Her book illuminates, and interrogates, the period (roughly 1760 to 1830 in France) fashion historians call "the great male renunciation," a time during which men's fashion garb moved from the flamboyant peacockery of earlier eras into the darker, simpler and less varied types of garments that remain the norm for men today. To explore the issues involved, she focuses on two men: Napoleon Bonaparte (1769-1821), who became the Emperor of France, and Pierre Antoine Le Boux La Mésangère (1761-1831), a defrocked priest who became a celebrated fashion arbiter—an emperor, so to speak, of fashion. Different as the men seem superficially, Waller perceives crucial similarities, noting that "both were provincial outsiders from the lower nobility who had to learn to look and behave like insiders," and "each wielded the power to tell others what to wear while breaking their own rules."

Waller had me at the first line of the Preface: "'What if I told you I don’t have a belly button?' Father McCrory asked. Some of my classmates shifted in their seats. Silence." While the book's main text is typically less surprising than that example, one of its great strengths lies in Waller's ability to marry scholarly research with ideas and queries that are anything but dull, dusty and drably "academic." The result is a book that has much to share about cultural history and also much to say about the construction of—and conflicts around—ideas of masculinity today.

Buy Napoleon's Closet: The Emperor, the Priest, and the Men Who Invented Modern Fashion by Margaret Waller at Bookshop or Amazon. Columbia University Press, 2026.

So19 Reviews: DAVID CONRAD-PÉREZ's The Triangle Shirtwaist Fire and the Origins of Modern Charity

"There have been few moments in American history that can be so specifically pinpointed as forever changing the character of the nation," the author writes in the Prologue to this marvelous study of the devastating 1911 factory fire and its consequences for American commercial and civic life. It's a huge claim, but Conrad-Pérez's book thoroughly supports it. Conrad-Pérez acknowledges that, as demonstrated in a number of existing works on the topic, the fire led to new labor laws and protections, "a calamity that became a catalyst, laws rising from smoke." "What is less known," he comments, "is that the fire also provided the definitive spark in the rise...of modern charity in the United States, a watershed moment that instantly recast a group of wealthy bankers and social elites as experts on social problems. And that long buried legacy—popularizing charity as a professionalized industry—has shaped the prevailing path through which the country meets issues of social crisis and poverty ever since, leading it away from the true drivers of its most persistent challenges. It's a more complicated story but, in our moment, as consequential." Conrad-Pérez mines previously unknown, unused or overlooked records, from private diaries to interviews with the descendants of those involved, to inform his work. The result is an intricate, detailed, and deeply researched book that is also a vivid and riveting story. It's a heartbreaking narrative, but a profoundly rewarding one. 

So19 Reviews: NANCY BILYEAU'S The Heiress of Northanger Abbey

Old threats, like vampires, never die in Bilyeau's excellent extension of Jane Austen's Northanger Abbey. The Catherine Morland of that novel, now 39, lives happily with her husband, Henry Tilney, and children at Woodston Rectory, some twenty miles distant from the Tilney family seat at Northanger Abbey. The years have led to some softening of her frame—"My looking glass showed a face rounder than when I first saw Northanger. If I tilted my chin down, a bit of flesh wiggled below"—but given her considerably more confidence. She still remembers the wild fantasies her youthful immersion in Gothic novels inspired. “I admit my imagination ran to more extremes than painted glass," she tells the children of her friend and sister-in-law, now Viscountess Granville. "I was certain that any place called an ‘abbey’ must be full of thick cobwebs, crumbling furniture, and dark and dirty secret passageways.” But she's also able to laugh at herself, commenting that the Granville daughters reacted to those visions "with as much astonishment as if I’d said I expected a herd of crazed beasts to rampage through the garden roses."

The novel opens with a letter from Catherine's 17-year-old daughter Phoebe, who is staying in Bath with her childless uncle Frederick Tilney and his wife. (Appropriately, the missive arrives amid a storm, which delivers a flash of lightning that "illuminated General Tilney’s portrait. In that second, his cold, calculating eyes turned fiery, as if he were angry with me. I could feel the rage pouring off the portrait as it did twenty‑two years ago from the man himself.") Phoebe mentions meeting Isabella and John Thorpe, whose greed endangered her decades before and who now hope to interest the 17 year old, who they believe to be Frederick Tilney's heir, in John's son Jack. Catherine's maternal instinct, and perhaps some of what we might call PTSD from her own encounter with the Thorpes, sound an ear-splitting alarm. She persuades Henry that she must visit Bath to warn and protect Phoebe, and the plot is off and running.

Crafting a satisfying sequel to a classic novel is a tough job, and many such books feel like faint, faded echoes of their originals. Bilyeau's homage, in contrast, meets the challenge admirably. Catherine is recognizably the girl from Austen's novel but also a convincing middle-aged mother; the settings, from a recently redecorated Abbey to the watering-place of Bath, are vividly rendered; the outsize power of inheritance to shape Regency lives remains a central theme; as importantly as any of those, the novel's voice is suitably wry and lively. Bilyeau succeeds, too, in playing Gothic tropes and tales against the novel's earthly (one might say grubby) dangers. John Polidori's The Vampyre, publishing the year before this novel opens, is used to excellent effect, as are the briefer references to sensation fiction sprinkled throughout the text. Like Austen's, Bilyeau's novel is a love letter to literature and the imagination, as well as a meditation on the importance of reading—and trusting—real-world clues. 

So19 Short Takes: ALYSSA MAXWELL'S Murder at Rosecliff

Maxwell makes another charming visit to Gilded Age Newport in this story of flaunted wealth and surreptitious wrongdoing. As always, the story involves one of the Newport "cottages," this time the Rosecliff mansion designed by Stanford White for silver heiress Theresa Fair Oelrichs. Deftly interweaving fictional and historic figures and grounding the murderous mayhem in real-world matters such as the era's ruthless business practices, Maxwell delivers a fun and perfectly paced read. In addition to the well-paced plotting, I enjoyed the many rich details Maxwell incorporates. Just for example, when narrator/protagonist Emma Cross Andrews attends the Rosecliff "White Ball," she eschews such well-known society couturiers as Worth and Paquin in favor of a dress by Anna Muthesius, a proponent of women's dress reform. It's a tiny detail, but a telling one: though she is a part of the Newport scene, she has never followed its dictates slavishly. Purchase Murder at Rosecliff by Alyssa Maxwell at Bookshop or Amazon. Kensington, August 2025. 

SO19 REVIEWS: Jennifer Higgie's BEDLAM

"Perhaps it is the story that chooses the man and wraps him in it until he suffocates," Higgie's extraordinary novel opens. The speaker, Richard Dadd, was 25 in 1843 when he "discovered another realm, a place inhabiting a truth that is, I have been told, no more than an elaborate fiction." The voices of that realm, a territory of his own mind, told him that his father was the devil and prompted him to stab Robert Dadd to death. Richard spent the rest of his life in British mental institutions, first the titular "Bedlam" (officially, Bethlem Hospital) and later the newly completed Broadmoor Criminal Lunatic Asylum. Much of his art, though not all, was created in those settings.

Higgie's story opens in 1885, a year before Dadd's death, and chronicles the experiences, both actual and imagined, that shaped his life. He is, he admits from the start, an unreliable narrator: "Where have I come from to arrive at this place? My recollection changes with every retelling. For the moment, this is the story that slips from me." He's also a mesmerizing one. For example, his chronicle of 1842 begins, "I have heard the heat there is so great it inhibits the singing of birds. I have not slept for days. My head is filled with infinite lists. Sir Thomas speaks as if he were eating boiled eggs....Something must account for the way he forms his words. They meet resistance at every word and wobble into silence." Higgie's striking prose and brief, taut chapters capture Dadd's inner life before and after the patricide he describes as "the fulcrum of my life."

I love Higgie's two previous books, nonfiction studies exploring art, inspiration, and identity (The Mirror and the Palette, Pegasus 2021, and The Other Side, Pegasus 2025). Her focus in both was often-marginalized women artists, and Bedlam displays the same interest in art and culture's edges; here, however, it's mental illness rather than gender that pushes—in this case, explosively propels—her subject out of the "mainstream." Much of what Bedlam depicts is tragic, yet—like Higgie's previous books—the novel is ultimately affirmative. Treated unjustly by others or, like Dadd, by their own brain chemistry, Higgie's subjects nevertheless make art. Bedlam is a depiction of the mind's fragility, but it is also a story about the strength of the imagination and the sometimes ferocious will to create.

Purchase Bedlam by Jennifer Higgie on Bookshop or Amazon. Published by Verso, July 2026. 

Society 19 Reviews: EMILY FRANKLIN'S Love and Other Monsters


Like her excellent previous novel, The Lionness of Boston, Franklin’s latest explores the life of a woman who doesn’t quite fit in with those around her. Love and Other Monsters (David R. Godine, April 2026)  is narrated by Mary Wollstonecraft Shelley’s half-sister, Claire Claremont, an often-overlooked member of the famous group that produced Frankenstein in the summer of 1816. The neglect of her perspective isn’t surprising; unlike the other habitués of the Villa Diodati, she wasn’t touched with literary genius. This is the story an “ordinary” young woman whose trajectory is shaped by the extraordinary people and events around her as well as her own, sometimes blind, struggles for significance. Passionate; energetic; smart and yet (like most young women her age) often unwise; searching for impact and identity: Claire is vividly portrayed and instantly relatable. Franklin’s rich prose captures Claire’s inner life, her complex relationships with those around her, the texture of her world, and her slow, unsteady maturation with equal insight. Love and Other Monsters is a compelling, poignant read and a resonant addition to the literature exploring a fascinating group at a fascinating moment. Find out more about the book and author at www.emilyfranklin.com

Claire Clairmont in a
portrait by Amelia Curran, 1819



So19 Interviews: JULIE DOBROW on LOVE AND LOSS AFTER WOUNDED KNEE

I'm delighted to be able to speak with Julie Dobrow about her new book, Love and Loss After Wounded Knee: A Biography of an Extraordinary Interracial Marriage, which appeared from the New York University Press on November 4. Some of you will know Julie from So19's interview with her about her last volume, After Emily: Two Remarkable Women—And the Legacy of America's Greatest Poet. Julie is the director of the Center for Interdisciplinary Studies at Tufts University, where she also holds faculty positions in the Eliot-Pearson Department of Child Study and Human Development, the Film and Media Studies Program and the Civic Studies Program. She's also one of the creators of Half The History, which aims to change the under-representation of women (particularly but not exclusively women of color and those from marginalized groups) in biographies and other stories. You can visit Julie's website for more about the author and her work, including links to some of the articles she's published about this book, which appear at the bottom of the site's book page.  Love and Loss After Wounded Knee is out and available for sale on all major platforms, including Amazon.com and Bookshop.org; you can also order it directly from the NYU Press. All that said, here's our chat. —SF

So19: Charles Eastman and Elaine Goodale, the subjects of your book, are fascinating figures, but neither is well known today. Tell us when and how you first learned of them and also how that awareness led to this book.

Dobrow: I first learned about Elaine and Charles the summer after my junior year of college. I had a job in the Sophia Smith women’s history archive where they had received a new tranche of papers from the Goodale-Eastman-Dayton family. My job was to start organizing these papers. And from the yellowed newspaper clippings, old letters and faded photographs, this remarkable story literally sprang off the pages. I was fascinated! During my senior year, I wrote a thesis about the life of Elaine Goodale Eastman, who I viewed, somewhat naively, as this amazing woman who learned the language of the Native American students she taught, traveled to the Dakota Territory in the 1880s, and seemed to have such progressive ideas about race, education, and gender roles. At the time I felt that I knew something about Elaine, but very little about Charles, and I thought he was intriguing, too.

After college, I wrote a couple of articles about Elaine but then moved on to other topics. And yet I felt I wasn’t done with this story. Not yet.